Koi Fish Dresser

It’s been a couple of years since I’ve painted furniture, and this dresser has been in my garage for just as long. In true Abby fashion, I came up with a complicated design. This dresser will eventually end up in our master closet after we install an organizational system. For now, it’s in our master bedroom.

There’s a reason why I never wanted to take custom furniture orders. Because I’ve never done a piece that ended up like I pictured it. This one included. I originally asked my Instagram followers to help me choose a pattern for inside the drawers. But two days later when I went to purchase the winning pattern, the website was being really sketchy. So I ended up going with this koi pattern from a different website, Zazzle.com. I’m kind of glad it worked out that way because I love the koi pattern.

I selected a dark navy paint for the body of the dresser, and it turned out lighter than I wanted. I thought it might darken up after I waxed it, but no, it didn’t. That’s okay, too, because this blue goes well with the tone of the green I painted inside the drawers. I already had the green paint, but I also considered a coral color.

I had just enough leftover koi paper to insert it into a frame that I already had in this spot. New art, I love it! The green lamp was from Samantha’s room before we gave it a makeover. It will be a fun pop of color when this goes in our closet.

This dresser was the very last piece of furniture I purchased specifically to paint. There are no more pieces to paint in the garage, and I don’t intend on getting any. On my to-do list are things like getting an organizational system for the closet and painting our bedroom. (It’s 14 ft x 27 ft, so I am dreading that.) Social media shows fast, all in one sitting makeovers, but I really think most people do things little by little.

Have a great weekend! We’re headed to the rodeo later today. Yee haw!

Abby Smolarsky2 Comments

The 50 Week China Cabinet Makeover

There really isn’t a solid reason why, but this china cabinet took me 50 weeks to finish. I wasn’t feeling a big creative push when I started working on it, and I think at the time we were transitioning out of an antique store we were in. I.e. I didn’t have a big need for additional inventory. Regardless of why, it actually took 50 weeks from start to finish.

Here it is “before”…

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As always, a little repair work was needed before painting.


//assets.pinterest.com/js/pinit.jsSo there are a few things that lead me to believe this is from the 1920s – 30s. I think it has some definite Art Deco elements like the original handles on the bottom, the feet, and the trim work. (And who said I don’t use my degree on a daily basis?! Those Furniture History classes come in handy more than I ever thought they would.)

So after 50 weeks, here is the after.

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Obviously there was a color change. I made my own “chalky” paint from scratch using Benjamin Moore’s Danville Tan. Painting was necessary mainly because of the repair work needed. I also changed the glass on the front. I created a “mercury glass” type of finish instead of clear glass. There are lots of methods for creating mercury glass if you search for it on Pinterest. It’s not my first time doing this technique, but a word to the wise: Just like a crackle finish will never turn out the same way twice, mercury glass will never turn out the same way twice. Let’s just say I thought long and hard, was definitely sure it was what I wanted to do, took some long, calming breaths, and said a prayer before I started it.

I’m happy the “mercury glass” turned out well!

It would have been fine without the mercury glass finish, but it didn’t seem quite complete to me without it.

The handles on the bottom are unique. I’m all about using the original hardware whenever possible.

Here’s the before and after…

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What a big difference! I know it’s hard to tell from the pictures how big this is. It’s only about 64″ tall, which is on the smaller side for a china cabinet. That’s typical for the time period it’s from though. I can totally see this being used as anything from bathroom storage to a bar or bookshelf.

//assets.pinterest.com/js/pinit.jsUntil next time…

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Crafts to Make with Hymnal Pages

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Yesterday I listed several vintage and antique hymnals in my Etsy shop, and I had a friend ask, “but what would someone do with an old hymnal…?”

Besides simply enjoying looking through it and being reminded of many of the traditional hymns that are no longer sung at church services, there are many wonderful ways you can repurpose them. In a way, repurposing will actually extend their “life.” Something like an old hymnal that may be worn thin and have no value to most people can be turned into things that will be used and treasured for years to come. Below are just a few of the neat crafts I found on Pinterest that use hymnal pages.

One of my favorites, Miss Mustard Seed used old hymnal pages on a lovely dresser:

Music Sheet Dresser....I would like to do this with some of the old hymnals I have
On AJ’s Trash to Treasure Blog, you can see that just about anything can get covered in hymnal pages, including lamp shades: 
10,7,10 CA projects110 SPECIAL HINT FOR LAMP SHADES: Paper the INSIDE as well as the outside. When the light shines through, all you seams and overlaps are OVERLY obvious. By double layering your paper (one layer outside and one layer inside) it will minimize this.
The Picadilly Post turns hymnal pages in works of art:
I love this -- I think I would use the hymn 'The Old Rugged Cross' or 'In The Garden' or 'It Is Well With My Soul'...
Christmas ornaments seem like something doable even for the beginning crafter. These were found on Houzz: 
IDEA: Hang on dining room window latches in love with these diy cloth ornaments and color scheme for sun-room - all year
Use them to make a wreath. Here’s a How-To from HomeTalk:
A Hymnal Page Wreath :: Hometalk
Here’s an old blog post of mine where I used hymnal pages in a painting:
In my opinion the easiest and cheapest way to use hymnal pages is to simply frame them! In my home I have this framed song in our guest bedroom: 
Now let your imagination flow! 
Tips: You can link back to all sources. Hover in each introductory sentence to find the link.  If you are interested in purchasing one of the hymnals in my shop to use for a project or just to keep, go HERE. (Listed under “Books” on the left.) Depending on the day there’s usually 2 to 20 available. I’m happy to check a hymnal if you’re looking for a particular song, year, or church affiliation. 

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Abby Smolarsky12 Comments

The {Final} Nitty-Gritty on Sanding. When You’re Done?

 

I’ve noticed that a lot of times tutorials that go over how to use “furniture” (aka “chalk”) paint don’t go over what to do once the paint has dried. I personally have several more steps to go once the paint is dry on my furniture. I sand it, seal it, and often glaze it.

Sand it when the paint is dry? For latex or spray paint, not usually. For “furniture,” chalk, or milk paint, yes. There is an incredible difference in the finish of “furniture” paint when you sand it after it dries and when you don’t. It becomes incredibly smooth and “finished” looking. The paint should dry 8 hours, or overnight, before you sand it.

Depending on the look I am going for, I will either use 220 grit sandpaper or “00” steel wool. Usually using 220 grit sandpaper with my Black & Decker Mouse sander will give more of a distressed look. That means whatever the surface color was before you sanded it (wood or a different color) will show through on the edges and raised details. If I just want to “finish” the piece and I don’t want to distress it I will use “00” (double fine) steel wool. Even when using the “00” steel wool, be careful on the edges and details.

DON’T freak out when you sand your painted piece. Paint dust will come off. Trust me when I say, do not sand indoors, even a garage. You will cover everything in a fine coating of chalk dust. The great thing about “furniture” paint is, if you sand off too much, just touch it up with some more paint. Also, don’t freak out if your paint color “lightens” up a bit. This is just the effect of the “chalk” or plaster of Paris in the paint. When you apply your wax the color will deepen again.

Before you continue the process of finishing your painted piece after you have sanded it, wipe it down completely with a DRY cloth. Actually, most of the time I vacuum the piece with my shop vac when I’m done sanding. You can even use the final sanding process as a way to be creative with your paint. Once you have done a final sanding, you are ready to finish your piece with wax, polyurethane, or glaze. (or all of the above) 😉

I will go over more info on using “furniture” paint in a future blog post.
XOXO,
Abby

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The Nitty-Gritty on Sanding {Part Two}

In my previous post I went over the reasons why I would or wouldn’t sand a piece before refinishing it. In this post I’m going to go over how exactly to go about sanding.

Three things that will make your life easier while sanding:
#1 An electric hand held sander.
#2 Know your grit, Sherlock.

#3 Always sand in the direction of the grain. (the direction that the lines in the wood are going)

An electric hand held sander is going to cut your time by at least 75%. I have an old Black & Decker “Mouse” sander and I love it. I want a new sander, but just because I love tools. This one works great. Sandpaper is made especially to fit it and is easily put on and off. I like this because I can switch in between sandpapers when I’m working on something. Yes, it is possible to sand using a sanding block, but it is going to take you a lot of time.
 
Know your grit. Grit refers to the roughness of the sandpaper. The lower the number, the rougher the grit. You always, ALWAYS start with a lower number and work your way up to the higher number. For example, when I am refinishing a table top I will start with 60 grit. The 60 grit will grind down through any varnish and stain to the bare wood. If you use 60 grit too long, it will eventually start to grind away at your wood. 60 grit will leave your surface rough. There will be visible sanding marks and your piece will not be ready to paint or stain.

After removing the paint, varnish, or stain you were aiming to remove, next you will be ready to start creating a smooth surface ready for your finish. I like to move from 60 grit to 120 to 220. Going in this order will leave you with a quality surface that looks professional and neat. Be sure to check the surfaces that you’re sanding from different angles. If you are able to see sanding marks, you will need to re-sand that area to get rid of them, which is why I like the mouse. If I am working with the 220 grit sandpaper and I see marks left from the 60 grit, I can take the 220 off and put some 120 back on, remove the 60 grit marks, and then move back to the 220.

Finally, always sand with the grain of the wood. “Grain of the wood” refers to the direction that the lines in the wood are going. Don’t argue; just do it.

If you’ve sanded properly, when you apply your stain you will be rewarded with a thing of beauty. If you apply your stain and you suddenly see marks from sanding, wait for the stain to dry and begin again.

Sanding is one of those things that when you do it right, it is completely rewarding. You can literally see your hard work pay off. I’ll go over how to stain furniture sometime in the future.
This is my 12 year old sanding a bookshelf for his room. Don’t be afraid to get started. You can do this.
 
Next up will be: Sanding when you’re…done?

XOXO,
Abby

 

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Abby Smolarsky2 Comments

The Nitty-Gritty on Sanding {Part One}

I’ve had some questions about sanding furniture, so I thought I would do a series of posts about it. Sanding isn’t my favorite thing to do. However, it can be very rewarding when it is done correctly. Since this is such a big topic, in this post I will cover information about sanding prior to painting or refinishing.

Before you start on a piece it is important to decide whether or not you need to sand at all. Let tell you when I don’t sand.
  • When I start with a piece that is unpainted, painted, or stained and I am planning to completely cover it in “furniture” (chalk) paint.
  • When I start with a piece that is painted or stained and I am planning to use a crackle finish, and I want the existing paint or stain to show through when it crackles.
  • Even if I am making repairs to the piece with wood putty or rebuilding a foot, for example, I only sand to make the repair even with the rest of the piece. I don’t sand the entire piece.

I make my own “furniture” paint. Some people may call it “chalk paint.” My furniture paint does not require prepping the surface before you use it. It will stick, and stick well, without sanding. That’s the whole point of using this kind of paint — to save time and prep.  So if you’re painting the whole piece and you’re using “furniture” paint, don’t waste your time by spending hours sanding.

Now here is when I DO sand prior to painting and refinishing:
  • I’m painting the piece, except for maybe the top of a dresser or a table top. In that case I will only sand the surface that isn’tgetting painted.
  • I’m using spray paint. Spray paint will show even tiny imperfections.
  • The piece is already painted, and I am planning to do a crackle finish that doesn’t include the current color.
  • The piece is painted and I want to remove the paint and stain it instead.
  • The piece is stained and needs to be re-stained.

I get a lot of questions about furniture and most people assume that everything needs to be sanded. This is not the case. Remember, chances are if you are painting the entire piece you do not need to sand before you paint with “furniture” (chalk) paint.

 
Come back in a few days for my post on how to sand.
Hope this helps!
XOXO,
Abby

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Don’t hide your crazy! History, that is.

Do you ever browse through the history section of Pinterest? I do. All I have to say is, there have always been crazy things going on in this world, there just hasn’t always been as many of us in it. When you find something that has survived through a lot of that crazy history, it deserves a little respect, doesn’t it?

You would probably assume since I like antiques, that I would also be interested in history. It’s true. I am interested in history and I have an appreciation for it. It’s so fascinating to me what particular antiques have actually survived and made it through to modern times.

I currently have a gorgeous vanity dresser available. This drop-center dresser was made circa 1850. It’s an early Victorian, pre-Civil War piece. Can you imagine what this dresser has “lived” through??

Solid marble is used for the surfaces in this drop-center vanity.

This dresser has been around through 32 presidents. When it was made there were only 31 states in the United States of America. The phone and the television were not invented. It made it through the Civil War, both World Wars, and Vietnam. This dresser was around during the time of Emancipation, Prohibition, Segregation, Women’s Suffrage, and human kind entering outer space. And it survived. Amazing, isn’t it?!
 


Talk about “made to last!” Check out those dovetail joints and the wooden locks on the drawers. I wonder what would have been locked up in them?

Ooooh! A secret drawer on the bottom!

A final reminder of just how long ago 1850 was: these shelves for a candleholder were necessary since electricity was not in homes yet.

XOXO,
Abby

***UPDATE*** Thank you for all of the interest in this piece. However, it has sold and is no longer available.
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Dresser’s Victorian Ornamentat (Google Affiliate Ad)

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